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San
Luis Obispo Senior High

|
Devon Christensen

The following was read by John French at a gathering
to remember
Devon
Christensen on
Saturday, March 25, 2006
, at the Christensen family home in
See
Canyon
:
It was mid to late January, 1971. I
was up on the Indian burial grounds watching Devon Christensen, Mark Lepley and
Devon’s brother Kelly surf—actually tube ride—waves from the end of the
Avila pier to the bottom of the burial grounds.
I was hooked, had to be part of this
Avila
Beach
underground surfer boy situation. I
was 11.
We surfed, and then surfed some more, and more and more.
Devon
with
his no-paddle take offs and unbelievable tube riding was far and away the best
of the best. In his prime he was the
best surfer I ever saw, or ever will see. No
one, and I mean no one will ever surf with the class “A” determination and
concentration as
Devon
. He was
untouchable. Just cut the longboard
in half, and shape it into a 5’ 11” short board.
Put new fins in and practice, practice, practice makes perfect.
Tarantulas,
February
3-6, 1976
--Giant tube rides. Oh, almost
forgot. Hooters 1973--Perfect 6
foot. My first taste of real pit
jobs.
Devon
had it
down to perfection. Take off behind
him yelling, “Hey, I’ve got it—comin’ down!”
He’d answer with a snicker and then a razor blade-like shower across
your eyeballs. Lesson one: Watch out
for the spray from
Devon
’s bottom turn. It
will blind you.
But by far the most unbelievable thing I ever witnessed
in my entire life was at Guta Point February, 1977.
Trying to get my wetsuit on while
Devon
gets
seven tube rides all the way down the point before I could even touch the water.
You could see his silhouette through the lip behind this blue curtain,
and he always made it out the other end.
“You’re only as good as the waves you surf,” he’d
say. Well, I was in the same waves
and I didn’t get seven tube rides in a row.
Never have seen anything like it before or since then.
I’ve been remembering
Devon
since
Friday. I remember a party right
here in 1974 or 1975. Savoy
Brown—total boogie down. I’ve
been remembering
Devon
the way
we always said we wanted to be remembered. End
of story.